Sweden’s capital is dedicated to your travel experience.
The excitement of being in Stockholm literally starts when you are striding through baggage claim in the pristine Arlanda Airport. The over-sized graphics of Swedish celebs such as Ingrid Bergman, featured in the Stockholm Hall of Fame, instantly establish the magical land upon which you’ve arrived.
Our adventure hurtled head-on into suiting up and boarding a rigid-hulled inflatable (RHIB) boat (oppethav.se). Now, I’m not a timid girl by any means, but this high-speed adventure is not for the faint hearted! Board with delight, but be prepared to have the elements flying in your face. The bodysuit, life vest and goggles are compulsory, and when you’re skimming over the water at 60 mph, clutching the handle-bar for dear life, you are certainly grateful for their protection—and pleased you chose to put your phone away rather an attempt a selfie.
The second half of our journey to Island Lodge (islandlodge.se) was a completely opposite kind of thrill. Once accustomed to the adrenalin of the RHIB, we found ourselves switching pace to a beautiful yacht. We were served tea, coffee and delicious pastries as we relaxed on a gentle saunter through the Stockholm archipelago. Our navigators stopped the engines, raised the sails and we were almost lulled to sleep watching the late afternoon sun gently fall to the horizon.
As we disembarked at the remote Island Lodge I immediately felt the click of coming off the work grid. Founders and Hosts, Kristina and Torkild took us on a tour of their small, uninhabited island and it began to sink in that there was no electricity—let alone Wi-Fi—available until we were back on the mainland the following day. We immediately jumped at the chance to relax by grabbing a beer and heading into the floating sauna. After reaching a state of intolerable heat, we braved the frigid elements and jumped into the ice-cold Baltic with screams of delight. It was an invigorating self-induced spa treatment as the sun set and slowly disappeared. When we finally dragged ourselves away from our play, our hosts greeted us with warm, candle-lit smiles, a spread of local fare and plenty of delicious wine presented on locally sourced wooden tables under the custom-made seafront-dining tent.
If you need to disconnect from life’s stress, then spend time with loved ones on this “glamping” site. You are immersed in the most glorious natural elements, yet Torkild will ensure that the wood-burning stove is stoked in your spacious high-tech geodesic tent before you tuck yourself into a comfy bed with fine luxury linen. I can’t remember sleeping so soundly.
After braving the stunning elements with an open-air shower, and brushing my teeth over a river stone wash basin, I warmed up with hand-pumped espresso coffee and accompanied my friends on a final exploration of the island’s fascinating former rock shelter torpedo workshop. Here we discovered that old military patrol tracks still exist amid a potentially unique event space actually carved out of the island. However, there was little time to fantasize as Torkild and Kristina were waiting to whisk us away to the ferry back to civilization.
Your passions can dictate how you spend a Saturday in Stockholm. The city spoils you for choice with 87 museums, numerous art galleries and abundant shopping. On top of that, just walking down the streets, soaking up the ornately designed structures is a treat unto itself. For a visitor, the public transportation is superb and the locals seem accustomed to non-Swedish speakers.
The exhibits in the contemporary photography museum Fotografiska (fotografiska.eu) are haunting, romantic and poetic, with a hint of sexy. The cutting-edge global and political, statements in some of the exhibitions shock you into awareness of the human plight. The fashion and glamour in others leave you with a myriad of takeaways—and a desire to load up in the souvenir gallery.
Now who doesn’t like a little “Dancing Queen”? Like many of the attractions I visited, ABBA The Museum (abbathemuseum.com) is highly interactive. Once you have browsed through The Swedish Music Hall of Fame, which is housed alongside, you enter the game-infused delights of this new culture hotspot dedicated to Swedish pop music—and of course the legendary pop band, ABBA. This exhibit is great for kids and adults alike. Sing on stage with the band, recording your track in the studio, and even practice your dance moves in the dressing room.
Although I had “Super Trouper” stuck in my head, we took a completely different tack and headed to The UNESCO World Heritage Woodland Cemetery (skogskyrkogarden.se) for a moment by Swedish screen legend Greta Garbo’s gravesite. We made a beeline to pay homage to the late legendary Hollywood movie star. Her simple gravestone, with her signature engraved in gold, stands at the back of a circular, empty, grassy, stage. To our delight a ginger cat summoned an appearance and we instantly declared that here was the spirit of Garbo herself.
After a day’s culture there are many places to let your hair down in Stockholm, especially on a Saturday night. A unique experience is to kick-off with a cocktail at The Icebar (icebarstockholm.se) where everything, including your glass, is made of ice. Thank goodness for the thermal capes and gloves, which are provided in order to enjoy the ambiance for at least a few minutes without enduring frostbite!
Stockholm’s architecture is a welcome feast. I was struck by the buildings’ unscathed magnificence. I walked in wonderment to the The Royal Palace, (royalcourt.se) where the modern, inclusive Swedish Royal family still resides. The family is reflective of the general attitudes of the people and government, which reports that theirs “was the first country in the world to include work on LGBT-related issues in its fundamental law.” Swedish marriage law has been gender neutral since 2009. Sweden allows transgender people to serve openly in their military—something the United States, despite the repeal of “Don’t’ Ask, Don’t Tell,” still bans by policy.
To discern the sumptuous, grandiose, 17th century palace the Royals still call home, which legally and culturally welcomes all people regardless of sexual orientation or gender identity, is certainly a charming demonstration that tradition and modernity can co-exist.
CALL OUT:
EAT
Hotel Skeppsholmen. The social dining experience and cuisine resemble the twist of this over 300-year-old listed building, which now boasts modern design and eco-friendly amenities. The hotel sits on a lush island in the heart of the bustling capital providing a tranquil, yet accessible venue. (hotelskeppsholmen.se)
Le Rouge. Romance is a given at this French fine-dining establishment, hidden in the historic city quarters, conjuring sensibilities of the Moulin Rouge. (lerouge.se)
Zink Grill. Around your shopping, enjoy a delicious breakfast, lunch or dinner here in the chic Bibliotekstan district. Family style dining adds to the black and white tiled ambiance to make a cozy yet lively meal to share. (zinkgrill.se)
SLEEP
Ett Hem. If you can afford it, do it. Quite simply this is the place to stay. Built in 1910 this luxury hotel welcomes you home. With only 12 rooms, sojourners eat in the kitchen and relax in the living room. The highlight of this establishment is the quintessential garden and outdoor dining experience, which is made possible year round with a heated glass wall veranda. (etthem.se)
Sheraton. This 5-star hotel is conveniently located within walking distance of several museums, government buildings and public transportation. The hotel meets your expectations in terms of comfort and style, and offers stunning views of the city. Breakfast is additional although the buffet is sumptuous and a typical Swedish experience. (sheratonstockholm.com)
SEE
Millesgården. Carl Milles’ wife was a strong inspiration for this Swedish sculptor’s breathtaking work. Saunter the grounds and be fascinated by his portrayal of powerful women. There are also homoerotic pieces on display. (millesgarden.se)
The Vasamuseum. The Vasa sank in Stockholm harbor in 1628 on her maiden voyage. This incredibly ornate warship was rescued from the seabed in 1961 and is the world’s only perfectly preserved 17th century ship. Today visitors learn of the period’s rich history on and off deck. (vasamuseet.se)
SHOP
Nordiska Kompaniet (NK). Six-level designer department store offering Swedish and international brands such as Hermès, Mulberry, J Lindeberg, Filippa K, Acne and Anna Holtblad. At NK Saluhall visitors can sample the best Sweden has to offer in culinary delights. Rosenrummet is a private lounge that offers assistance with personal style and shopping. (nk.se)
A StartUp Store. Initiated from the non-profit organization Business Challenge, this store, showroom and gallery in Kulturhuset, Stockholm features products and pieces of Swedish entrepreneurs. The prevailing theme is that hard work and not giving up on your dreams leads to success. (astartupstore.se)
TRANSPORT
The Arlanda Express is the best airport transportation. Just 20 minutes from the Stockholm Central Station, you can’t go wrong. (arlandaexpress.se)
Beware of taxis in Stockholm! Sweden does not regulate prices, so fares can vary greatly. Only use those taxis with a yellow number plate. Ask your hotel concierge for guidance.
Buses, trams, trains and ferries are safe, clean and efficient in Stockholm. Use them to your heart’s content.
*This article originally appeared in the March 2014 edition of Curve Magazine.