We arrived at Freycinet National Park just before an awe-inspiring sunset. The deck surrounding the Freycinet Lodge’s restaurant was filled with onlookers enjoying a late snack and breathtaking views. The water in the lagoon beneath us shimmered with shades of opal and turquoise as the sun approached the horizon, sinking slowly toward the long pier projecting out from the base of the lodge. As the sky turned crimson, I was startled by something scurrying behind me. I whipped around as a group of brushtail possum, with their long, bushy, gray, prehensile tails and fox-like faces, began snacking on a plate of leftovers a diner had casually left behind. Then one of the cute little creatures apparently mistook my travel mate Anna for a tasty snack, taking a sizable bite out of her sandal-clad toe as she stood waiting for me to arrive for dinner. She was bloodied but not dismayed, so I suggested a bandage might be a good idea.

Tasmania, the smallest and most southern Australian state, has often been called one of the last of the living Edens, although my childhood cartoon addiction left me thinking otherwise. I imagined the Tasmanian Devil (or “Taz” as we called him on Saturday mornings) spinning around the countryside like a tornado, demolishing everything in sight with his ferocious jaws. It left me with the impression of a wild country, teeming with unusual flora and fauna that I had to see. I headed to Tasmania hoping to spot a real Tasmanian devil. What I didn’t expect to find were friendly people, a thriving gay and lesbian community, outrageous outdoor adventures and breathtaking views around every corner.

With her rugged athletic build tamed by sweet, deep-set dimples and soft brown hair, Anna reminds me of a modern-day Xena — especially in this land of bush walking and wild creatures. Originally from Melbourne, she spent years following winter around the globe, shuffling between adventuring in Tasmania and ski patrol in the Canadian Rockies. We met up in Hobart, Tasmania’s capital city. Nestled at the base of Mount Wellington and overlooking the Derwent River, Hobart is an amazing juxtaposition of old-world charm and modern décor. In the historic Sullivan’s Cove precinct, Georgian and Victorian sandstone buildings have been gloriously restored. Old warehouses, factories, cottages and maritime workshops have been renovated into posh restaurants, cafés and art galleries.

Anna explained, as I reluctantly rolled out of my comfortable bed at the Henry Jones Art Hotel — a superb modern-eclectic hotel and art gallery — that an early start was essential. We headed for Salamanca Place and its outdoor market, possibly the best place to shop for locally crafted gifts. The Salamanca market, where the early bird definitely gets the worm, happens only on Saturdays. The aromas of steaming coffee and sweet, fresh organic fruits wafted under my nose as Anna navigated the market like a pro, pointing out the best stalls to buy soft, hand-knit wool “jumpers” and Australian pine bowls and carvings. Mingling in the vibrant crowd, Anna would stop every once in a while to chat with a familiar face while I continued browsing, destined to buy all the gifts I had promised to cart back. When it was time to head off, I had accumulated more in under an hour than I had room for in my suitcase.

Gay and Lesbian Tasmania

Early 19th-century Tasmania, then called Van Diemen’s Land, was settled by the British as a penal colony and was the final destination for thousands of prisoners from across the British Empire, many of whom were imprisoned for “crimes against nature.” Many prisoners, both men and women, engaged in same-sex relations in Tasmania and even formed committed same-sex relationships, according to official reports.

By the mid-1800s, the mainstream community, outraged by “pseudo-males” (their term for women-loving women), separated lovers by sending them to different sides of the island. Over the years, Hobart began to attract more and more gays and lesbians, and by the 1920s, although it was still illegal, the city was home to a vibrant gay community.

Gay legislation reform campaigns started in the 1980s, and after lengthy protests, Tasmania became the first state in Australia to recognize same-sex unions. As of 2004, the Relationships Act grants lesbian and gay partners equal status to married couples. In response, gay-friendly communities are thriving. For example, Swansee, a tiny village by Great Oyster Bay, is now a vibrant and growing lesbian community.

When Anna suggested we stop in at the Left Bank Café in Swansee for “the best latte anywhere around,” I saw a rainbow flag swaying in the breeze. Over a delicious, frothy soy latte, I sat down with owners Subi Mead and Helen Bain, who had converted an old bank into their café, to discover why this seaside town is suddenly attracting lesbians. The Left Bank isn’t a lesbian café — it’s for everyone — but it’s the anchor of Swansee’s lesbian community. Since it opened, women have caught on to the fact that it’s simply a great place to be yourself.

Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park

Tasmania’s environmental policies are as enlightened as its civil rights policies. More than a third of Tasmania is protected as a World Heritage Area and as national parks, forests and marine reserves. With kayaking, bush walking, rock climbing, mountain biking and four-wheeling, Tasmania is an adventure girl’s paradise. Additionally, Tasmania boasts the cleanest air and water in the world. In fact, measurements taken there are used as global benchmarks for levels of air pollution.

Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park is part of a group of parks in western Tasmania that is protected as part of the Tasmanian World Heritage Area, one of only three temperate wilderness areas remaining in the Southern Hemisphere. The rugged contours of Cradle Mountain epitomize the untamed landscape. The park’s Overland Track transverses the heart of the area and is widely regarded as a walk of a lifetime. An awesome six-day hike, the Track takes you past towering forests of trees older than humanity, temperate rain forests, jagged mountains, trout-filled streams, glacial lakes, waterfalls and rocks from every geological period.

Considering all the ecological diversity within the park, I was sure Anna and I would spot the Tasmanian devil here. What I didn’t expect to see were two mysterious dark eyes peeking out of the water in the lake next to the Cradle Mountain Lodge. The platypus is one of only three monotremes, or egg-laying mammals, still found on earth today. I stood mesmerized, waiting for it to surface over and over again. With its freakishly odd bill, webbed feet and broad tail, it was the oddest animal I’d ever seen. Too bad Anna was off on a hike. In all her time in Tasmania, she’s still never seen one.

Freycinet National Park

Despite our possum encounter, Freycinet National Park, on the east coast, quickly became my favorite of Tasmania’s 17 accessible national parks. It’s home to Wineglass Bay, named by Outdoors magazine as one of the world’s top 10 beaches.

With the park’s secluded bays, wide-open seas and pink granite coastline, Freycinet has mind-blowing kayaking for everyone — novice to pro. Anna and I set out on a full-day kayaking trip with Freycinet Adventures, an award-winning eco-tourism company. Well-equipped with plastic pants, fleece pullovers and neoprene booties, we were ready to explore one of Tassie’s most magnificent coastal parks.

The chilly waters of Muirs Beach in Coles Bay were calm as we slid our double kayak in. Our tour guide, Sam, summed it up when she said, “If you aren’t into geology when you visit Freycinet, you’ll be hooked once you get here.” Stunning pink granite mountains, crystal-clear blue waters and white, sandy beaches were around every corner, and when it started to drizzle, we pulled into a tiny inlet snuggled between two huge pink boulders. We snacked on Sam’s gummy bears while the shower passed, entranced by the dozens of varieties of scarlet, jade and yellow seaweed shimmering brilliantly in the clear waters beneath our kayak. When returning from our paddle, the sun peeked out and we stopped to enjoy it on one of the countless beaches that dotted our excursion.

After a piping hot cup of coffee, we stripped down to our knickers for a refreshingly chilly swim. An otter — or was it a seal? It’s all a blur now — looking amused but not afraid, poked its head out of the water next to me as I realized that my fingers were turning blue in the autumn sea.

Later, as we paddled home, it dawned on me: Despite all the beaches we passed and all the water we covered, we hadn’t encountered a single human. Mind-boggling.

Determined to experience all Tasmania had to offer, I abandoned kayaking and took up four-wheeling. A complete novice, I admit I was apprehensive as we set out behind our guide toward the winding dirt trail that headed to the secluded Friendly Beaches. As we made our way past granite boulders, eucalyptus and fern-studded trails, my fear was quickly replaced with awe. As we neared the beach, we ran into four of our guide’s mates who had just pulled in a dozen or so crayfish.

After a long day of Freycinet adventures, the area’s accommodations provided the perfect respite. Nestled in the bushland overlooking Richardson’s Beach is the Freycinet Lodge with its cozy cabins where Anna and I watched that amazing sunset. Even further off the beaten path is Mount Paul on Freycinet, where owners and couple Virginia Cowie and Phillippa Denne traded in their desk jobs in England to drive tractors and build fences on their very own mountain. With a few beautifully appointed, modern mountain lodges boasting balconies and breathtaking views, Mount Paul was the perfect spot to put up our feet and reflect on our adventures in the wilds of Tasmania before heading home.

We asked Cowie and Denne for a tour, and they happily shifted their Subaru Forester into four-wheel drive to bring us to the top of their mountain. After navigating a dirt road teeming with quirky animals, we arrived at the summit with 360-degree, breathtaking views of the Tasman Sea, the Hazards Mountains, Coles Bay, Great Oyster Bay (with Maria Island in the distance) and the Swan River Estuary.

When I asked if we might catch a glimpse of a devil on Mount Paul, Virginia told me that they are usually quite reclusive, and that the main mammals they see on Mount Paul are wallabies (Bennetts and Rufous hare), possums (brushtail and ringtail), echidnas, wombats, quolls (Eastern and Spotted Tailed), devils, potoroos, pygmy possums and bettongs. There are also a wide variety of birds, including sea- and wedge-tailed eagles, laughing kookaburras, wattlebirds and yellow-tailed black cockatoos. In fact, a university team visits Mount Paul twice a year to trap and tag devils in order to prevent a facial tumor disease that afflicts the animals, and so far all their devils are “healthy and abundant.”

I figured Mount Paul would be my best bet to finally spot a Tasmanian devil before heading back home. Unfortunately, the only one I ever saw was on the label of the Cascade ginger beer in my hand later that night. n

What Else Do You Need to Know?

Where you’re going: When I said I was going to Tasmania, my sister asked if I had gotten all my vaccinations, while my mom asked, “Where exactly is Tasmania?” Tasmania is the southernmost island at the bottom of Australia, and the farther south you travel, the colder it gets.

When to go: I went in March, just before winter in Australia. It’s a great time to avoid the crowds.

Get gay info: Download a copy of the Tasmania Gay and Lesbian Visitor’s Guide at discovertasmania.com/gayfriendly.

Where to stay: In Hobart, Corinda’s Cottages (corindascottages.com.au) offers 19th-century cottages on the grounds of a grand Victorian mansion on the National Estate Registry. Also in Hobart, the Henry Jones (thehenryjones.com) is Australia’s only dedicated art hotel. Nestled on the waterfront, it’s a renovated row of historic warehouses and a former jam factory. Alternatively, HIBA Gatehouse (Tel. +03-6293-1456), a gay-owned private retreat with beach access, a stocked trout lake and gardens, is only six kilometers from Adventure Bay village.

Great grub: Lickerish’s modern Australian cuisine is a delight (Tel. +03-6231-9186) while Kate’s Berry Farm (Tel. +03-6257-8428) on Great Oyster Bay has the best fresh-picked berry ice cream around. In the seaside town of Swansee, a stop at the lesbian-owned Left Bank Café (Tel. +03-6257-8896) is a must.

Doing Freycinet National Park: All4adventure ATV (all4adventure.com.au) will get you out in the stunning surrounds of the park, while Freycinet Adventures (freycinetadventures.com.au) offers sea-kayaking activities. Inside the park, Freycinet Lodge (freycinetlodge.com.au) has 60 cabins, a waterfront restaurant and bistro. Mount Paul at Freycinet (mtpaul.com) offers breathtaking views from its timber lodges in the center of the Freycinet Peninsula.

Doing Cradle Mountain: The Cradle Mountain Lodge (Tel. +03-6492-13030), with its spa cabins overlooking the rainforest — and fine Tasmanian food and wine — is a must. Built from local stone, slate and recycled timber, with glass walls opening to dramatic views of the Pencil Pine River, the king suites feature large private decks with hot tubs.

If you still have time: Take a cruise in Peppermint Bay (peppermintbay.com.au) or enjoy wine tasting at Moorilla Estate (moorilla.com.au).

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